Sunday, January 18, 2009

Training...

Ok, so after riding the other day, and working on a training issue, I decided it would be a good idea to tell you guys about my problem, how I went about correcting it, and then, I would love to know how you would have corrected it, had it been your horse.

I have a 9yr Arabian x Quarter Horse gelding in for resale. He is a decent little horse, very quiet, he walks/trots/lopes when you ask, has a decent stop on hi, he even has lead changes when he is paying attention. But he isn't BROKE, Now, anyone can ride this horse, arena or trails, he is safe, I would put a beginner on him. So, many of you are probably wandering what I mean when I say he isn't broke. When I pick up my reins, instead of dropping his nose in and waiting for a cue, he either ignores it or pushes his nose out a little. When I ask for a turn, I'll shift my weight, use my leg, and then pick up on my reins. Sometimes he turns beautifully, other times, he pulls his nose the opposite way, and braces himself against the bit, completely ignoring me. As far as a stop, all you have to do is say whoa, and shift your weight back, he stops. If I pick up my reins and also cue for him to stop with them, he tucks his nose and stops. When stopping, he doesn't ignore or evade the bit like with everything else. Backing, I shift back, pick up my reins so that I have contact, but I don't pull. Then I put my calf on him, and he backs, he doesn't nose out, even if I apply more pressure on my reins.

So, there is some info on the horse, to help you understand him. Now I'm going to tell you why I think he does this. When we got him, he carried his head unusually high, and was horrible about bending/flexing. The first thing I did was get the chiropractor out. He was out in his poll and neck on both sides. They also had him in myler bit, 5" shank, level one mouthpiece. Not a harsh bit, by most standards. But after riding him, I had a feeling that he was used to being jerked on, a lot. So, my theory is that maybe he knows what he is supposed to do with his nose and head, but when you pick up the reins, he is expecting to be hurt, and even if the reins don't hurt him, he doesn't want to flex or break at the poll because he had been out. So I had him adjusted by the chiropractor, and got to work. First thing I did was put him back in a smooth mouth snaffle. I got on him, and treated him like a colt that doesn't know how to flex and break at the poll. I would hold him until he gave just a little, then release. I worked on breaking at the poll, and then bending his nose to each side. After a couple times, I think he realized he could bend and flex without it hurting. He seemed to get it at a standstill, and so I quit for the day. Fast forward a couple of rides. He was bending, flexing, and breaking at the poll great at a standstill and a walk, but jogging he would just revert back to nose out, and bracing. He was softening up a lot in the bridle, but I seemed to be stuck when it came to picking up speed and him staying that way.

So I thought about it, and the next day I went out to ride, with a plan in mind. Now, before I go further, I will say, it's my first time fixing this specific issue, so I may have gone about it the wrong way, but that is why I wanted to talk about it on here, to see what others thought of how I fixed it, and get opinions on how they would fix it. So, back to my plan. I saddled him up, put his o-ring on him, clipped my training forks{also known as a running martingale} to the girth, ran a pair of reins through them, and just laid the reins on his neck. I grabbed my other pair of reins, clipped them directly to the bit, and then got on. So, I had two sets of reins on my horse, one set run through the training forks, then a normal set. Many people ride with double reins when using draw reins, but does anyone use double reins like I did? lol

Anyways, using my normal reins, I asked him to give and flex, then backed him a few steps before going forward. Then, as we walked along, I would use my normal reins, and then every now and then use the reins that were through the forks, so he could get the feel of them. He didn't brace against them, or do anything at all really, but when I would use those reins, his head would drop and he would listen to them very well. It made me wonder if he knew what the training forks were. So, we got him loosened up at the walk, and I asked for a jog, which he picked up. I picked up on the training fork reins, he dropped his nose in a little, waiting. I was surprised at the instant change. So, I continued to ride for pretty long time, and after asking a couple things with the training fork reins, I started using my regular reins again, then if he didn't do what was asked, I would pick up the training fork reins. By the end of the ride, I had dropped my secondary reins on his neck, and was riding him with my normal reins. He was doing a lot better, not bracing or nosing out, but not perfect. We will see if the lesson stuck next time I ride, and hopefully it stuck enough that I can continue working on the problem without the aid of the training forks.

Now, I know that probably wasn't the way to go about fixing that problem, but I thought it worked very well for that horse. Because I think he has known all along how to do what I need him to, but I think he was hesitant because of past issues. So, what would you have done, to fix this issue. I would love your suggestions, because we still have work to do, and the training fork lesson might not have stuck with him.

7 comments:

  1. Hi Ginger! I came over here from Mugwump.

    Have you looked at this horse's mouth? Does he have a low palette/fat tongue combination? I ask because sometimes a horse like this just doesn't work well in a single-jointed bit or in certain curb bits. I have a mare with that sort of mouth conformation, and, in addition, she has a bad cut in her tongue on one side from a riding accident (before I owned her).

    Horses with this sort of mouth conformation work better in double-jointed snaffles like a French Link or a Sprenger KK training bit (with a little bean in the middle). Avoid Dr. Bristol bits as they're severe (the middle plate is angled rather than flat like a French link or KK). Reason for going to a double jointed snaffle is that the single link snaffle will grab a horse like this in the roof of the mouth.

    It's also well worth having his teeth floated if they haven't been recently, as that can also contribute to issues like this.

    I tend to look to these sorts of things first when presented with a horse with this kind of issue because of an example from a hunter barn I was lessoning at. Big Arab gelding (mostly due to legs), 15.3 hh with the body of a smaller Arab, tended to be a high-headed runaway, really anxious and strong over jumps (but honest, he might dirty stop on you but I ended up in front of the saddle once when he decided that the jump might bite and he overjumped hugely, arms around his neck, and instead of dropping his neck and dumping me, he kept it up and I was able to pop back into the saddle). He was a nasty leaner and puller on the bit as well.

    Change in riding school management brought someone who knew something about handling this sort of stuff. They did chiropractic, had his teeth worked on (the equine dentist told me this boy had the worst x-rays ever for cross-bite, major, major problems) and the head instructor started him out in a KK training bit (or schooling bit). This Arab went from a high-headed, spooky puller who needed a Pelham or gag to jump to Mr. Mellow who didn't spook much, moved with a lower head and well under himself without hollowing out, and eventually moved from the KK to the shaped Mylar snaffle. Working on both chiro and the mouth was the key, and I think it took about a year of dental work every four months before he was more or less fixed, and afterwards he was definitely a candidate for 6-12 month dental maintenance sessions.

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  2. Thanks for the comment! Hope you stick around, I'm just starting the blog. I did have his teeth looked at, and they were good, vet said it seemed like they had been floated recently.
    I didn't however, think to try a three piece bit on him.
    Out of the following, which would you try?
    I have a western offset d-ring with a roller in the middle.
    Eggbutt with a half moon link
    eggbutt french link
    and english d ring with a bean.

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  3. I'd do either of the last two. My preference would be a loose-ring french link but the eggbutt french link I think is what will tell you what's going on.

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  4. Ok thanks, I have to do a lesson tomorrow with a student and her horse, and we meet at a local arena for her lessons, I usually take a couple of my horses to ride after the lesson to get them out and about. I'm thinking of taking him tomorrow, so if I do, I'll try the eggbutt and let you know how he works in it.

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  5. Joyce... I tried him in the french link, and while he might have improved a little, he still did everything that he has been doing. I think I am going to keep him in the frnech link, and work on the issues, but I think it is a training issue, and not a bit/teeth issue. But thank you so much for your suggestions, because I think he was a little more comfortable in it.

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  6. Good.

    These things don't change overnight, though. It's encouraging that he's a little bit more comfortable!

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  7. Yes, which is why I'm keeping him in it, and seeing if it gets better. He is learning, and I think he got the point enough that I won't have to use the forks again, and can just work on the issue as we go along.
    Thanks for your help!

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